Many of the World’s larger, more history-rich nations, Italy, China, or Mexico, for example, contain such large numbers of World Heritage Sites that it can be difficult to visit all of them in a reasonable amount of time. Conversely, most of the smaller nations, with much less clout within the UNESCO Site selection process, are lucky to have a single Site within their borders. This situation is considerably more acute when the land in question is a small island nation located in a remote part of the globe. Palau is an example of that, with only one Site to claim. However, in this case, the Site, Rock Islands, Southern Lagoon, a mixed Natural and Cultural property, is one of the finer examples to be found in its part of the World.

That Site protects a large area containing a multitude of interesting and beautiful geological formations, a marine zone with a great abundance of life, and a Cultural component consisting of archeological sites demonstrating human habitation during previous millennia. More precisely, the Rock Islands are a collection of over four hundred closely-spaced small islands, islets, and rocks, which were formed in an earlier geologic period through karstic processes. Specifically, in the distant past a large limestone block had been uplifted to a level above the sea, followed by the erosional processes typical of karst. In this case, erosion both from above, due to rain, and from below, caused by the sea, has formed many of the islands into a characteristic mushroom-like shape. This particular morphology, which makes it extremely difficult for humans to land on, not to mention walk upon, most of the islands, has resulted in the exceptional state of environmental preservation seen in this Site today. Of course, another major factor behind their nearly pristine condition has been the attitudes of the Palauan people, who appear to value conservation more that most.

Since I knew from the start that I would be in Palau for a relatively long time, I expected that I would be able to visit this Site in both a very thorough and leisurely manner. As usual, things didn’t go as smoothly as I had hoped, and in the end it was rather fortunate that airline issues caused me to stay in the country even longer. Many visitors who come to Palau do so explicitly for the World-class diving and snorkeling opportunities found in the Rock Islands. As I was still rehabilitating one bad arm at the time, I had to pass on those otherwise enjoyable activities. Other visitors make use of various day-tours, which usually involve kayaking, with possibly some land-based activities, like birding, as well. I investigated that option, but, since tourism had only recently restarted in the country, there were not many customers at the time and, somewhat perplexingly, none of the tour companies were willing to waive their four-person minimum to run a tour.

That left only the option of hiring a private boat, which, while somewhat more costly, was rather more appealing for me, and could be easily arranged by the host of the apartment I was staying at in Koror. Unfortunately, just before we were scheduled to go, the high chief of Koror State passed away while visiting Taiwan. Palauan tradition said that all public areas, including the Rock Islands, were to be closed until after the funeral, three weeks later. As it turned out, during that time I was technically able to visit the Site, because the ferry I used to reach Peleliu Island passed right through the core of the Site and the conditions on that voyage were especially pleasant.

I still desired to make a more official visit, however, and the final week-long delay caused by Covid policy changes and airline schedules meant that I would be staying just long enough to do so. However, I cut it quite close due to three days of foul weather during that last week. Finally, on my very last day in Palau, immediately before my late-night flight out, the boat trip to Ulong Island, one of the few places in the Site where a landing is possible, eventually took place and was exceedingly enjoyable. I particularly appreciated my visit to this Site, because it had been a while since I had been in an area featuring such a presentation of spectacular natural beauty, and the collection of images below should hopefully speak for themselves.